@k87upkid
We've poured concrete counters a couple times as well as some 2x4/2x6 formed pads/sidewalks. A reciprocating saw without a blade was money for getting bubbles out each time.
@buddyrhodes
Long time Lookie, first time commenting. I’ve cast a counter or two in my day and have a few suggestions for next time. One is to use foam for the sink opening. Concrete shrinks and particle board expands with moisture causing the crack. Set up the molds and prep the day before casting. Giving you plenty of time and energy day of pour. Mix with warm water in the winter, ice cold in summer. Cold weather and materials will slow down the set and cure time. Store your materials in the house to warm them up. Opposite in the summer. Keep on truckin’.
@Reckee
You guys constantly show how hard and impossible work can be done gracefully, cheerfully, efficiently and with fantastic outcomes. That's truly inspiring.😊😊
@keithmikolich908
I really like how you are upfront with how much you spend and save on all your projects. I enjoy watching all your videos.
@Roroxane
Forever amazed by Courtney's brain, the undervibration was genius!
@florianvincent6229
hello guys from France ! i did the same in my kitchen thanks to other youtube videos and i used polystyrene for sink hole and tung oil for finish. thank you for all your inspiring videos
@ToddDesiato
I have the Craftsman without autolock and it whips back so fast that it cut my arm! I then bought the KOMELON Self Lock, and I love it! It's not scary and works as intended.
@carefreeclubhouse1714
You 2 are like the Wonder Duo! Is there nothing you 2 can't do!! OMG, we can not wait to rent the Air B&B!?!
@jphanks
The countertops look great. If you don't like the rustic look of the concrete countertops, You can lightly wet sand them until you get the texture you would prefer. I'm really surprised you didn't pour those in place. My little Homestead has done a series on how they poured concrete countertops in place for their kitchen
@Ervan-l9v
Love how you are willing to try new things. Counters look good.
@bryanprehoda
I love watching how hard you guys work. It’s no joke
@MrSpock002
You guys have DEFINITELY given me food for thought on how I approach our vanities and counter tops - thanks! Still leaning towards Butcher Block - will let you know!!!
@AWROAL
That trick with the sponge lubricating the cutter…… Genius
@briangroene7756
I love how Courtney does her best to annunciate the word caulk 😆
@lauraquigley6403
Good morning Courtney & Riley! I am still in Palm Beach it is 80 degrees again. You have both accomplished so much since the truck life! ❤you both but Oliver is the star🙏🙏🙏Blessings
@terrycomeau-f7m
Wow...I really like the hard work you both put in with the work of use by YOUR hands!!! Amazing Results!!!
@danbenede
Milwaukee Tapes are brutal, not just the auto lock. The tape is light and flimsy and the tang is big and bulky and too heavy for the light tape, can’t stick out very far without flopping side to side. I love the Milwaukee tools but the best tape measure is the Stanley Fat Max, the one with the magnet on the tang is great if you do metal work. Another awesome video, you guys do such nice work and are a great team!
@AmbitionStrikes
UPDATE: The counters are cured and we sealed them with 3 coats of Osmo Polyx Raw Matte. They are looking even better now and we can't wait to see how they hold up.
@RobertRowen
Hi guys. I have always enjoyed your videos. Over 20 years in the concrete polishing business, here. I actually started out creating polished concrete countertops, sinks, and bathtubs, along with floors. I have a few observations. Obviously, I would have put some form of reinforcing, in addition to the fiber additive, around the sink. I liked to use fiberglass rebar, along with carbon fiber mesh, because they are easier to place, and in my experience, tend to "ghost" less, ie: make a visible outline in the finished surface, in the bottom of your mold, in this case. BTW, I always preferred to pour upside down in the mold, as you did here, unless the piece was too large to flip, or otherwise had to be poured in place. If you do this again, you might want to investigate GFRC (glass fiber reinforced concrete) techniques, where you spray a rich sand mix, fortified with your selection of additives, but minus fiber,, followed by a fiber rich mix, either sprayed into your form on top of the just sprayed in layer,, or poured in, much as you did here. This method almost completely eliminates bug holes. In order to minimize the chance of cracks developing when placing pieces, I would wait 1 - 4 WEEKS before attempting to move a curing piece. Another suggestion would be to leave the forms on until you had the pieces on top of the cabinets, at least. That said, that small crack is totally fixable with the the proper materials and techniques. Another suggestion would be to use a smoother form material, especially if you want to minimize polishing steps later, such as glossy formica, glass, of even sheet steel, although using steel is more for commercial production. That brings me to one final question: how do you plan to finish these countertops? Since you already installed them, and the sink on top, I imagine you are going to use a topical sealer, either epoxy, acrylic, or poly. We would never do that. Not only to avoid the use of plastics in proximity to food preparation areas, but also to produce a superior tactical/aesthetic result: diamond polished concrete feels better than almost anything. Poured into melamine, which does have a bit of texture to it, we would start with #200 diamond grit pads, either wet or dry, depending on the concrete and on the pads you have, and work our way up to #3000 grit, grouting, and densifying once or twice along the way, before sealing with a PENETRATING sealer, one that works sub-surface, and won't put itself in between you and your beautiful polished concrete. I would be happy to answer any questions. 😀
@AmbitionStrikes